|
|
By Hilda, on October 25th, 2010
When it comes to planting bulbs, the standard advice has always been to choose a location with well-drained soil. Bulbs like tulips and daffodils tend to rot and die out when they’re planted in a soggy spot. But there are a few options for damp places. The Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center suggests planting certain varieties of fritillarias and camassias near water gardens or in places that don’t drain well.
Here are a few specific suggestions. (The information below has been adapted from material furnished by the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center.)

Fritillaria meleagris – I’ve never personally grown this bulb, but I find it rather charming in an understated way. I’m used to hearing the common name of “checkered lily” for this fritillaria, based on its two-toned, patterned flowers, but it’s also known as guinea-hen flower and snake’s-head fritillaria. It’s native to Europe where it often grows and naturalizes in moist locations. It can be found with either checkered purple or white flowers that bloom in April-May.
The average plant height is around 10 inches. They prefer full sun to partial shade, and rich soil. They do best when the plants are not disturbed after planting. These fritillarias are often sold as mixed colors but individual cultivars in specific colors can be found as well. White varieties also tend to be subtly checkered in a white-on-white pattern.
Here are a couple of views of these fritillarias growing alongside a pond, and in a sunny meadow.



Camassia – Camassia is native to the mountains and prairies of western North America, where it became known as edible camassia and Indian quamash. You may also hear it referred to as “wild hyacinth,” although it’s not related to true hyacinths.
This bulb has a history: Meriwether Lewis praised it in 1806 in notes he made during the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Even so, this little plant remains one of the lesser-known bulb flowers.
Camassias, which naturalize in USDA zones 3-8, have a very natural look and fit in well between perennials and among ground covers. If too many bulbs develop in any one location, they can be dug up in early fall, divided, and immediately replanted. There are three separate species that you’re likely to find in mail order catalogs, and these are:
- Camassia cusickii – With light blue flowers that bloom in May-June, the plant grows to a height of 24-32 inches and thrives in full sun to partial shade. It produces an abundance of flowers, with up to 100 star-shaped little flowers on each stem.
- Camassia quamash (also known as C. esculenta) – This is a late-blooming bulb, with deep blue flowers that bloom in June-July. They grow to an average height of 14-16 inches and need full to partial shade. This camassia is one that the native North Americans used to eat.
- Camassia leichtlinii – This species features creamy white flowers that bloom in May-June. It’s a tall flower, growing to an average height of 24-40 inches, and does best in full sun to partial shade.


All photos courtesy of the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center
By Hilda, on July 20th, 2010
Some people use the term “plant marriages” to describe winning combinations of flowers that bloom at the same time and complement each other in terms of color or form. The photos below depict another kind of plant combo, one that I always think of as a green tapestry when I see it.

In this composition, there are so many textures and colors all woven together, yet the result is complete harmony. I shot this photo at the home of Atlanta landscape designer Paula Refi — among the plants I can name are a burgundy colored ajuga, strawberry begonia, hosta, aspidistra, Japanese painted fern (silvery foliage), an unidentified variety of green fern, and a tiny variegated shrub that might be boxwood or privet. The mossy stones add yet another pleasing element.
♣

Autumn ferns and a variety of evergreen shrubs provide contrasting shapes and textures around the base of a Japanese maple. The upright shrub in the right corner is the Japanese plum yew, Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Fastigiata’ — an amazingly versatile evergreen that looks good in all seasons. I can identify Fatsia japonica in the very back, behind the tree trunk, and the whorled foliage in the foreground is a hellebore.
♣

So many shades of green! A soft mound of feathery, silvery artemisia consorts with a bluish-green variety of euphorbia in a sunny border.
♣
Gold clubmoss (Selaginella kraussiana ‘Aurea’) lights up a shady area and contrasts beautifully with the dark ribbons of black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’). I shot this photo in the woodland garden of landscape designer Sandra Jonas.
♣

Ajuga and strawberry begonia (Saxifraga stolonifera) always play well together — though they both can spread to cover a wide area, they never overpower each other. Here, a fern is happy to make it a threesome.
♣

This is a beautiful combo for shade. The gold-leafed plant in the forefront is creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’). In the rear, a variegated hosta mingles with self-sown impatiens. I’d actually prefer to see white impatiens here, to play off the white variegation in the hosta leaves — but for some reason, impatiens only ‘volunteers’ in shades of red and orange.
♣
By Hilda, on June 20th, 2010
It’s garden tour season! I went on one last weekend, and it was kind of a whirlwind tour (11 gardens in six hours) but I did end up with some snapshots of beautiful container gardens. There’s just something about a flowerpot overflowing with plants that says “summertime!” to me. I love really scrumptious container plantings, the ones that intermingle so many colors, textures, and shapes that you feel like the plants are having a flower party right in front of you.
I’ve experimented with all different kinds of color schemes in my container plantings, but when it comes to choosing plants, there’s one formula I always stick with, and it involves these three elements:
- A tall, spiky, bold leaved, or otherwise dramatic plant for the center of the container (although sometimes it can be off-center for an asymmetrical effect)
- Lots of mounding plants to fill in most of the space – can either be flowers or interesting foliage
- Trailing plants that will cascade over the edge of the pot and soften the edges
These photos from the garden tour show me that other people have the same idea about combining plants in containers using the three-element formula.

I also saw these gorgeous containers designed for shade: no flowers, just plenty of contrast between the foliage plants in terms of their shape, texture, and color. I love both of these compositions and would like to recreate them at home. Each of them only uses two kinds of plant material, but they look stunning.

For more ideas on creating container plantings, take a look at this article on Fine Gardening’s website. The author also recommends the three-ingredient approach, though he’s rather creatively described the three distinct types of plants as “thrillers, fillers, and spillers.”
♣
|
About The Author
Hilda Brucker
Hilda combines her love of gardening and passion for writing in her blog entries.
|